Let It Snow, Let It Snow, Let It Snow!

Our January visit started off at Fritzel’s with Colin Myers (tb), Zach Lange (tp), Ellis Dyson (bj), Brett Gallo (dr) and Ted Long (bs). This young group of excellent musicians was just the kick-starter to a wonderful two weeks in the French Quarter.

Later in the evening, Jamil Sharif (tp), Chuck Brackman (bs), Bryan Besse (dr), Leslie Martin (p) and Clarence Johnson, III (sx) took to the stage to continue with the traditional New Orleans’ sounds. Clarence incorporated a type of “scat-singing” with his alto and it was a unique sound. He didn’t remove the mouthpiece, he just used it with his voice blending the two distinct sounds into one melody.

The following day had Richard Scott (p) coming up with lots of chromatic songs followed by Jack Pritchett (tp), Nick Skolnik (dr), Mike Robbins (bs) and Todd Yannacone (gtr). The evening brought out Kevin Ray Clark (tp), Bryan Besse (dr), John Royen (p), Chuck Brackman (bs) and Jory Woodis (cl/sx).

The next day found Josh “Jams” Marotta (dr), Matt Perrine (sousa), Doyle Cooper (tp) and Steve DeTroy (p) all on stage for a great afternoon.

Lots of private parties dot the residences in the Quarter and musicians are all eager to play and enjoy the festivities during this long Mardi Gras season.

A few hours at the Historic New Orleans Collection on Royal gave us an intimate look at the Captive State: Louisiana & the Making of Mass Incarceration exhibit which had been extended several times. The Collection offers a variety of self-guided or hosted tours and demonstrations throughout the year on French Quarter history, Louisiana culture or current events. It is always an excellent way to spend a few hours in an afternoon.

Our friends from the Wolverine Jazz Band (Boston MA) were arriving that evening and we met at the iconic Commander’s Palace. All of the many rooms were filled with happy patrons enjoying Louisiana delicacies and the service was impeccable as always. Bob Barta (bj), Sandy Brown and Tom Boates (tb) enjoyed their flight and were looking forward to several sessions of “jamming” moments in the coming days. Back at Fritzel’s for a nightcap, Chuck Brackman (tp), Kris Tokarski (p), Bryan Besse (dr), Jim Markway (bs) and Tom Fischer (cl) rounded out the evening.

The New Orleans Jazz National Historical Park had Charmaine Neville (v) and Amasa Miller (p) during their afternoon performance on Decatur. These afternoons are free to the public and part of the National Park Service demonstrations. Charmaine is not just a vocalist, she is a consummate entertainer who engages the entire audience in her performances. With a suitcase full of percussion “instruments” she doles them out to various attendees and even those without the gift of rhythm can “make music” – that is her ultimate goal in demonstrating to all, how “music” is made!

We went back to Fritzel’s while the Wolverines jammed in Jackson Square. Sam Friend (gtr), Owen Callahan (cl), Cody Coulon (dr) and Miles Lyons (tb/sousa) had the late afternoon slot and then Zach Lange (tp), Jory Woodis (cl), Cody Coulon (dr), Sam Lobely (bs) and Karen Shiraishi (p) took over. The evening ended with Kevin Ray Clark (tp), Ellis Sieberling (tb), Jim Markway (bs), Leslie Martin (p) and Dave Mahoney (dr) enjoying the attentive audience.

By now, there was a lot of talk about the pending snowstorm scheduled to arrive on the 21st. It was hard to believe all that was being said and could there really be the biggest snow fall in 130 years? Many people started to make alternate plane reservations and the musicians were concerned about the bridges and freeways that would ultimately be closed for several days.

Back at the Historical Park, we found Jason Marsalis with Gerald T. Walkins (dr) and Martin Masakowski (bs). To be able to see two musicians from two of the most famous New Orleans’ musical families on consecutive days was a real thrill! Jason explained a lot of the differences with a vibraphone vs other similar instruments. He discussed resonance, vibrato, dampening, articulation and how the various pedals sustain notes. He talked about melodic percussion; as a drummer, his perspectives were well formed.

That evening found us at Snug Harbor on Frenchman to see vocalists Yolanda Robinson and Jolynda “Kiki” Chapman with Mike Esneault (p), Gerald French (dr), Brian Querzergue (bs gtr), and Stephen Walker (tb) recreate some of their beloved tunes from the Solid Harmony gigs with their mom, Topsy Chapman.

We caught up with the Wolverine musicians at Maison Bourbon where Bob (bj) and Tom (tb) sat in with Jeff Kreis (tp), Ryan Burrage (cl), Danny Rubio (p), Spencer Knapp (dr) and Dylan James (bs). That was a true delight creating a traditional seven piece band and a full audience of a primarily younger set dressed in fancy dresses and tuxedos celebrating the beginnings of the Mardi Gras season!

The following day took us all to Preservation Hall to see Leroy Jones (tp), Katya Toivola (tb), Nobu Ozaki (bs), Daniel Farrow (sx), Barnaby Gold (dr) and Mike Clement (gtr). We stayed for a few extra sets and to see Gregg Stafford’s band with Joey Lastie (dr), Stephen Walker (tb), Louis Ford (cl/sx), Mitchell Player (bs) and Rickie Monie (p). I had the opportunity to sit next to original co-founder Alan Jaffe’s sister Rhoda who lives in Flagstaff, AZ—practically neighbors! Rhoda and her daughter, Robin, were visiting with other family members for a gathering that nephew Ben Jaffe arranged at the Hall. We saw Ben for a few minutes before the set as the courtyard was being prepared. Rhoda and I talked about her brother and his wife Sandra and their involvement with the Hall and its origins. With both Alan and Sandra now deceased, this was a close connection to the iconic venue I so revere.

We went over to the Jazz Playhouse at the Royal Sonesta to see Richard Scott (p), Catie Rodgers (tp, flgl), Kyle Sharamitaro (dr) and Ted Long (bs) while waiting to hear where Bob & Sandy & Tom ended up for the evening. A quick text that they were at Fritzel’s got us on our way so we all met back there. They were originally planning to leave on the 21st but were able to get flights out on the 20th, so it was an even shorter trip for them, but they really packed it all in!

The following day was beautiful with conversations disbelieving the pending snow storm (?) as most international flights were being cancelled. The moods were festive and Fritzel’s held our attention for most of the day. That evening, patrons didn’t want to leave, with many experiencing an “extended” vacation, but the place had to close so the musicians could get to their homes before the freeways and bridges were shut down.

The “sneaux” day was beautiful with a constant light, fluffy fall that was obviously going to beat the 1895 record. Our hotel had limited staff that spent the night but the kitchen was not open. Fortunately the hotel across the street had a full kitchen available and we gathered there with some stranded happy folks and all marveled at the once-in-a-lifetime experience we just witnessed. The next day was sunny and bright with snow piles everywhere. Some limited clean-up began but overall the city is not prepared for such weather. No plows, salt, or other means of clearing the snow is available.

There was still an air of incredulity and many musicians had a multi-day sabbatical as the freeways and bridges were closed, We found music in our regular haunts and were introduced to some new talents not usually scheduled. Becky Lynn Blanca plays a small banjo and her little chihuahua sits at her side. With Russell Welch (gtr), Jason Jurzak (sousa) and Mike Voelker (dr), she kept everyone entertained and her enthusiasm brought lots of smiles to the Fritzel’s audience. For the musicians that live in or near the Quarter, the city was their oyster!!

Things were a bit back to normal a few days later and again, Fritzel’s was the “go-to” place. With three separate sets of excellent musicians, it wasn’t a hard choice for how to spend the day. The Tin Men featured Alex McMurray (gtr), Washboard Chaz and Matt Perrine (sousa).

By the 25th, most of the interior roads were cleared and the Park Service venue was open again. We saw Will Smith (tp), Mari Watanabe (p), Craig Klein (tb) and Julius McKee (sousa) with our friend, Chantell Nabonne, who considers Will her special uncle. Will has had some difficult health challenges these past few years, but he is a trooper and he discussed the musical impact of past Preservation Hall performers such as Punch Miller and Sweet Emma.

A short walk to the 21st Amendment on Iberville found the Blue Horn Band with Ellis Dyson (bj) James Evans (cl, sax, tb) Matt Bell (gtr) and Stephen Terry (tb). A small venue, it has a rotating audience who are welcomed in by the music right at its front door. I always enjoy seeing James on any one of his instruments and this was a good opportunity to see him and Ellis again.

Back at Fritzel’s for the evening and a nightcap. The next morning we stopped in at the Cafe Beignet for a light lunch and had a chance to chat with Dave Ruffner (tb), Zach Wiggins (p) and Freddie Staehle (dr). The streets were cleared by now and new barriers were being installed on Bourbon Street in anticipation of the Super Bowl crowds yet to descend on the Quarter.

Richard Scott’s gig at the Jazz Playhouse brought some normalcy back and the Royal Sonesta is always host to many international travelers. Visitors from Colombia, Italy, Canada, England and other parts of the United States were in the audience that one night and although some were “leftovers” from the closed airport mis-adventures, others were just beginning their vacations, all eager to be in the Big Easy.

A visit back to Fritzel’s for the evening and the following day brought back many of the previously stranded musicians to the stages. Tales of snowboarding, snow angels, snowmen, snow cocktails, snowball fights, and general “I never saw snow before” conversations filled the room. Many photos made the national press and seeing ten inches of snow on every chair, table, balcony, roof, statue, car, etc. was an unforgettable sight to behold!

Our visits are always filled with welcome surprises; this one was no exception!