Autumn in New York? No, New Orleans!

Although the government shutdown was in effect, our flights to New Orleans were very much on time. We unpacked and immediately walked the two blocks over to Fritzel’s European Jazz Pub to see Colin Myers (tb), Ellis Dyson (bj), Tyler Thomson (bs) and Cody Coulon (dr). What a great way to start our visit! We then stayed for the evening with Jamil Sharif (tp), Bryan Besse (dr), Ted Long (bs), Leslie Martin (p) and Tom Fischer (cl).

On the way back to the hotel, we stopped in at Maison Bourbon to say “hi” to Danny Rubio (p, tuba) although the rest of the band had already left for the evening.

The following day we did an afternoon stop at Fritzel’s to see Richard Scott (p) for a set. A quick lunch and back to Fritzel’s for the late afternoon set with Catie Rodgers (tp), Bryan Besse (dr), John Royen (p), Jory Woodis (cl), Abram Racin (bs) and a surprise visit from Brad Trubee who performed on the bass for many years past. He sat in on a few tunes and was, as always, flawless!

The next day we spent the morning at The Historic New Orleans Collection to be part of “The Trail They Blazed” tour about the Freedom Riders in the early ’60s. Our friend, Dodie Smith Simmons, was one of the 435 riders in the May 1961 group which was created to test two Supreme Court decisions mandating the desegregation of interstate travel facilities. The organizers trained the Riders to keep their composure during the attempts to test local compliance at various lunch counters and restrooms. Dodie’s comments from her recent interview were prominently displayed throughout the exhibit. It is a remarkable story and a brave part of our history.

After the morning tour we attended a lecture on the Aeolian organ on the upper floor of the Collection and heard the numerous pipes/sounds that are produced by one of the few remaining Aeolian organs in existence. After, we went over to the 21st Amendment to see Joe Kennedy (p) and have lunch at the Acme Oyster House. I gave Rhonda a copy of my not-yet-published November column about her and “the oyster”—she was pleasantly surprised! That evening we attended the set at Snug Harbor with Dr. Michael White (cl), Mitchell Player (bs), David Boeddinghaus (p) and Mark Braud (tp). Our friends from Belgium met up with us there and we all thoroughly enjoyed the early evening. A quick stop at Fritzel’s had Caleb Nelson (tp) leading the band with Todd Yannacone (p), Bryan Besse (dr), Chris Sharkey (bs) and Ellis Sieberling (tb).

The following day another stop at Fritzel’s had Zach Lange (tp), Jory Woodis (cl), Dizzy Incirlioglu (wash), Nahum Zdybel (gtr) and Taylor Kent (bs). That evening Caleb Nelson (tp) again led the band with Jim Markway (bs), Cory Walters (dr), Ellis Sieberling, and Scott Kiser (p).

The next day led us to Preservation Hall to spend the afternoon with Wendell Brunious (tp), Caroline Brunious (cl), Richard Moten (bs), Joe Lastie (dr), Freddie Lonzo (tb) and Lars Edegran (p). We stayed for several sets and enjoyed the company of the musicians in between. Hearing stories of past gigs and relishing in their banter was a slice of heaven. Nanci Lonzo was kind enough to set us up in the “chapel” seats near Freddie and Joey while a surprise visit by Ben Jaffe (tuba) gave us time for lots of hugs and kisses. I love that place and the remodeling of the courtyard gives patrons a chance to mingle for special events. The afternoon sessions are jam-packed and every visitor is enthralled and captivated knowing even a small amount of its history.

A stop at Fritzel’s before had Dwayne Burns (tp), Cody Coulon (dr), Abram Racin (bs), and Jeremie Henan on piano visiting from France.

Another stop after had many of the usual suspects with Ellis Sieberling (tb), Scott Kiser (p), Clayton Hopkins (dr) and Smitty Supab (bs). Later Jamil (tp) led the band with Ellis (tb), Scott (p), Cory (dr) and Mike Robbins on bass.

The October sessions of the Nickel-A-Dance were to be at Snug Harbor this year and we were looking forward to the Sunday afternoon performances provided free to the public with several local sponsors in attendance. We had the chance to see Nina Buck (prior owner of the iconic Palm Court Cafe) together with many other patrons and local friends. Vocalist Thais Clark and her Jazzsters headlined the first of the sessions with Norbert Susemihl (tp), Richard Moten (bs), Karl Budo (dr), Chuck Chaplin (p) and Christian Winther (reeds).

After, we headed over to the Jazz Playhouse at the Royal Sonesta on Bourbon to hear Richard Scott (p) and his quartet. Catie Rodgers (tp, flgl), Ted Long (bs) and Kyle Sharamitaro (dr) put on a great show and the Playhouse offers some small bites to enjoy for dinner.

The next day The Tin Men played at Fritzel’s: Alex McMurray (gtr), Washboard Chaz and Matt Perrine (tuba) get the mood going so Richard Scott’s Monday Night Magic group with Catie Rodgers (tp, flgl), Bryan Besse (dr) and Calvin Martin (bs) can keep the momentum. We met up with Barry Barbe, owner of three wonderful restaurants (El Gato Azul, Torme and Shirley’s Urban Eats) in Prescott, AZ who was visiting for a month while still writing his food columns and probably thinking of his “fourth” venue. He managed his many businesses via his phone while enjoying the local music, no doubt getting some tips for his own group,The Goodwin Street Gang Jazz Band!

Later that evening we stopped in at Maison Bourbon to see Jeff Kreis (tp), Ryan Burrage (reeds), Danny Rubio (tuba), Zach Wiggins (p) and Josh “Jams” Marotta (dr). As always they are a fun group!

The next day was Fritzel’s 56th anniversary party with lots of food and merriment and special guest, Gunhild Carling, the fabulous multi-instrumentalist from Sweden and now California. With Kevin Clark (tp), Bryan Besse (dr), John Royen (p) and Abram Racin (bs), Gunhild always steals the show! Dozens of musicians stop by during the evening to enjoy the array of Greek foods from the Athenian restaurant on Decatur. Vasileios Zarganis (Mr. V) is a part owner of both Fritzel’s and the Athenian and it is a wonderful and delicious combination. Fabulous gyros and baklava adorned the tables with many other delicacies from that luscious nation.

Since Gunhild was to be in town for three days, getting to Fritzel’s early each evening to obtain my favorite seats became a priority for those days. Trombone Charlotte from Toronto is also back in town and a great entertainer.

Vocalist Jan Sutherland was also visiting and stopped in the following evening to belt out a few at both Fritzel’s and Maison Bourbon. As usual she wowed the crowd here as she does in California with a classic “St. Louis Blues.”

A stop at Maison Bourbon on the way back to the hotel gave us a chance to catch up with Danny Rubio (p), Ryan Burrage (reeds), Dylan James (bs), L.G. Sullivan (dr), and a young Ravee Treesaksesakoon on trumpet.

The second Nickel-A-Dance had Kermit Ruffins on stage with his band including Jason Marsalis (vibes), Irvin Mayfield (bj), Jerry Barbarin Anderson (dr), Kevin Morris (bs gtr) and Z-2 (p). Kermit is a consummate entertainer and a beloved trumpeter. He announced that he and Irvin will be starting a Monday night jam in the French Quarter at Felix’s Restaurant on Bourbon so we look forward to attending that on our next visit. While Kermit leaves the stage sometimes to do his own “visiting” Irvin picked up Kermit’s trumpet to show his chops. He also does the best “St. James Infirmary Blues” rendition ever heard. It is fast paced and quite irreverent and wonderful!

Jason brought a completely disassembled vibraphone set with multiple parts and strange attachments. I had no idea the instrument was even able to be so compact in its carrying case. The connected and tuned metal bars are individually placed as the resonators (tubular metal pipes), a damper pedal and spinning discs are installed upon the frame and metal stand. It was fascinating to watch him put it together on stage just a few minutes before the performance. I always enjoy seeing a band “set up” and this was an exceptional moment!

Thais Clark (v) was in attendance again along with some “regulars” from the Palm Court and it was wonderful to see them yet again. Nayo Jones took to the stage for a few tunes including a phenomenal rendition of Etta James’ “At Last”—it was a spellbinding moment!

Trotting off to the Jazz Playhouse for the evening saw Richard Scott’s quartet with Catie Rodgers (tp,flgl), Ted Long (bs) and Kyle Sharamitaro (dr). Kyle had his parents there next to us and it was fun to watch their smiles filled with pride at the obvious success of their son in the Big Easy.

Our last day found us at Fritzel’s of course, with The Tin Men for a set and then Richard Scott’s Monday Night Magic quartet with Jamil Sharif subbing for Catie Rodgers on trumpet together with Bryan Besse (dr) and Ben Fox (bs).

CNN had a four part series airing in October on New Orleans: The Soul of a City, citing the city’s resilience, history and traditions 20 years after Hurricane Katrina—and the first two episodes were about the food and music. Jamil Sharif, Michael White (cl), Seva Venet (bj/gtr), Charlie Halloran (tb), David Boeddinghaus (p), and Jerry Barbarin Anderson (dr) opened the series and had cameos throughout the episode together with other musicians we often enjoy. With our TV “on demand” feature, we watched it upon our return and it was an inspiring perspective of the city and people we have come to love. I encourage you to take a look at the first few episodes and enjoy the Soul of that City!