A Quarter for My Thoughts!

The French Quarter Fest in New Orleans was pushed back to the weekend before the two Jazz Fest weekends so we decided to go for all three weekends. We hadn’t been to a Quarter Fest in over 20 years, although the last time it was sequential we got there in time for the Sunday events and spent several days with our friends from the United Kingdom who always attended Quarter Fests through the ’90s and early 2000s. This time we were on our own and it was beautiful weather. Many “outside” acts are now set up along the river with large seating areas and food booths. Only a few stages were set up and down Royal Street and some events actually took place indoors in Bourbon Street establishments. The Jazz Museum and other venues near the Quarter provided lots of opportunities to catch live music. Most of our favorite musicians were to appear on the stage at Jackson Square, a few blocks from our hotel. I love the Square and its history!

A few nights at Fritzel’s and Maison Bourbon set the stage for the fest itself before four days of fantastic music in the outdoors. The Quarter truly hums with music and you can’t help hearing a trumpet or sousaphone in the distance. With over 300 acts and 1700 musicians on 20 stages throughout the Quarter, the 70 food/beverage vendors had their hands busy.

The opening parade down Bourbon Street right in front of our hotel was special and I remembered Pete Fountain and his Half Fast Walking Club starting the last one we attended. The Paulin Brothers Brass Band took the lead and we continued to the stage at the Square. The Preservation Hall Brass Band headlined the next set and got the “party” started! Banu Gibson celebrating 16 years as the Traditional Jazz Camp director belted out a few tunes with Catie Rodgers (tp), Tom Fischer (cl), Hal Smith (dr), Kerry Lewis (bs), David Boeddinghaus (p), Rex Gregory (alto) and David Sagar (tb).

The Mahogany Hall Jazz Band took the stage for a rousing set with Paul Longstreth (p), Gerald French (dr), Stephen Walker (tb), Richard Moten (bs), Tom Fischer (cl) and Kid Chocolate (tp)! Co-owner of Mahogany Hall, Kate Wimmer was there to “strike up the band” and mingle with the adoring crowd.

Leroy Jones (tp) and Katja Toivola (tb) had their band in fine form with Brett Gallo (dr), Mike Clement (gtr), Bruce Brackman (cl), and Grayson Brockamp (bs).

That first evening took us to Snug Harbor for Dr. Michael White’s Original Liberty Jazz Band with Gregg Stafford (tp), Steve Pistorius (p), Dwayne Paulin (tb), Seva Venet (bj), James Alsanders (dr) and Tyler Thomson (bs). Dr. White’s clarinet is internationally known and the band performed an impromptu rendition of his newest original piece he created on his recent long flight returning from Spain: The Spirit of Frenchmen Street.

Back to Fritzel’s for a few hours with Caleb Nelson (tp), Tom Fischer (cl), Scott Kyser (p), Chris Sharkey (bs) and Bryan Besse (dr). A stop at Maison Bourbon to see Danny Rubio (p), Ryan Burrage (reeds), Rob Pearce (tb, visiting from the UK), Jack Pritchett (tp), Spencer Knapp (dr), Pam Murphy (v) and Dylan James (bs) ended the evening.

The next day began with Don Vappie (bj/gtr), Mark Braud (tp), Tom Fischer (cl), Richard Moten (bs), Jamil Sharif (tp), Mike Esnow (p), Alonzo Bowens (cl) and Doug Belote (dr). Native-born, Don reminisced about his first introduction to traditional jazz and knew at an early age, he wanted to play and perform.

Celebrating his 99th birthday, Lawrence Cotton (p) tickled those ivories while the entire audience wished him a very happy birthday. Vocalist June Harvey Brown led the tune while later belting out some of her own renditions. Freddie Lonzo (tb), Craig Klein (tb), Richard Moten (bs), Bruce Brackman (cl), Joe Cushenberry (gtr), Will Smith (tp), and Kerry Brown (dr) provided an excellent backdrop for this revered musician.

Tim Laughlin (cl) was up next and a welcome sight as we hadn’t seen him since last Fest. With David Boeddinghaus (p), Hal Smith (dr), Duke Heitger (tp), Charlie Halloran (tb) and Taylor Kent (bs), Tim performed beautifully and we always enjoy his sets.

The Big Easy Boys were four vocalists recreating the music of local icons Fats Domino, Allen Toussaint, Lloyd Price, Deacon John, Dave Bartholomew, Dr. John and The Neville Brothers and other musicians like Little Richard and Ray Charles. They all recorded at Cosimo Matassa’s J&M Recording Studio on Rampart and later his own studio on Gov. Nichols, that established his role in Rock & Roll and Rhythm & Blues history. With lots of four part harmony and choreography, The Big Easy Boys were fun to watch and hear on a beautiful spring day!

Wendell Brunious (tp) and Caroline Brunious (cl) always have a wonderful set and along with Freddie Lonzo (tb), Shannon Powell (dr), Tom Hook (p), Richard Moten (bs) and nephew Andrew Le Duff as Grand Marshall, the band blasted out many familiar tunes.

A stop on the way back to the hotel included a visit to The Historic New Orleans Collection for their timely exhibit with photos and memorabilia honoring Cosimo Matassa’s 100^th birthday celebration and as previously mentioned, his contributions to American music which were immeasurable. Cosimo passed away in 2014 after also running his family grocery store on Dauphine which has been recently remodeled.

Chuck Redd (dr/vibes) and Jason Marsalis (dr/vibes) had an evening at Snug Harbor and we stayed for both sets enjoying several other friends at each set. A chance of a lifetime to see two internationally acclaimed vibists on stage together – how could I miss that! With Steve Masakowski (gtr) and James Singleton (bs), this was a quartet from heaven. Chuck said they wouldn’t repeat many numbers from the first set and they didn’t, the second set was terrific and we had a chance to chat with all of them after the last set.

Lena Prima headlined the next day back at the Quarter Fest and with Tim Fahey (gtr), Josh Paxton (p), Justin Pardue and Thad Scott (sax) and Clayton Hopkins (dr) doing a killer Sing, Sing, Sing from her famous dad’s original recordings. Our hotel is located across the street from Louie’s brother Leon Prima’s club and I can always feel the vibes from that location – Louie was an indelible part of the Sicilian Italian community in the French Quarter, growing up in the ’20s. Lena pays endearing homage to her dad and a loving tribute by his talented daughter is a joy to witness!

A few blocks down Royal Street had Seva Venet and his band on stage for some memorable moments outside of the Jackson Square Stage. Seva’s (bj/gtr) set with James Alsanders (dr), Tom Fischer (cl), Will Smith (tp), Haruka Kikuchi (tb), Julius McKee (tuba) and Larry Sieberth (p) was set up on an elevated stage right on the street as how I always remembered the Quarter Fest in prior days before the current sewer improvements and street repairs construction obstacles. It was fun to sit on the curb and enjoy this talented group!

The Jazz Playhouse at the Royal Sonesta had the last set with Gerald French (dr), Richard Moten (bs), Kevin Louis (tp), Paul Longstreth (p), and Rod Paulin (reeds) and it was nice to be in an indoor venue. It was a 2+ hour set and superb in an environment we often enjoy.

Continued days and evenings at Fritzel’s with stops at Maison Bourbon completed our Quarter Fest week. Getting to “hang out” with trumpet players (Kevin Clark, Caleb Nelson, Mike Fulton, Dwayne Burns, Jeff Kreis); trombone players (Colin Myers, Ellis Seiberling); bass players (Julie Schexnayder, Ted Long, Chuck Brackman, Chris Sharkey, Jim Markway); piano players (Richard Scott, Scott Kyser, newcomer Joplin Parnell, Zach Wiggins, Leslie Martin); drummers (Bryan Besse, Mike Voelker, LG Sullivan, Jams Marotta); guitarist Mark Weliky, vocalist Pam Murphy and washboard enthusiast Dizzy Incirlioglu with many others already mentioned makes my day!

Next… on to the Jazz & Heritage Festival for two more weeks of music and friends!